If you’ve ever asked “what are coilovers?” you’re in the right place. Coilovers are the backbone of modern performance suspension, delivering ride-height control, damping adjustability, and consistent handling on street, track, or drift. In this guide we’ll explain what coilovers are, how they work, how to choose the right set, and the exact steps to set them up the smart way.
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Definition: What Exactly Is a Coilover?
A coilover is a compact suspension unit that places a coil spring over a shock absorber. Unlike many factory setups that separate the spring and damper, a coilover combines both into one adjustable assembly. That compact package unlocks precise control over ride height, preload, and damping, which directly affects grip, body control, and steering feel.
Anatomy: The Parts That Matter
- Shock body – the damper housing that controls motion via oil flow and valving.
- Spring – supports weight and sets the base rate of vertical movement.
- Lower mount – attaches to the knuckle or control arm.
- Upper mount – attaches to the chassis (often with camber/caster adjustability).
- Spring perch and lock rings – set ride height and preload.
- Damping adjusters – knobs for rebound and/or compression tuning.
How Coilovers Work
Coilovers manage two jobs: the spring supports load and defines how much force is needed to compress the suspension, while the damper controls the speed of that movement. On the road this translates to less roll, better responsiveness, and stable control at the limit. Adjustable coilovers let you tailor these behaviors to your car and your use-case.
Core Adjustments: Ride Height, Preload, Damping
Ride Height
Ride height affects center of gravity, roll center alignment, and bump travel. Lower is not always better. The goal is to lower enough for stability and aero without slamming into bump stops or wrecking geometry.
Preload
Preload is the compression applied to the spring at full droop. It sets spring engagement but does not make the spring “stiffer” in the linear region. Use preload to remove slack and ensure the spring stays seated, not as a substitute for rate changes.
Damping: Rebound and Compression
- Rebound – controls how quickly the spring extends after a bump. Too much rebound makes the car feel skippy; too little feels floaty.
- Compression – controls how quickly the damper compresses on impacts and weight transfer. Too much is harsh with reduced grip; too little is wallowy.
Monotube vs Twin-Tube
| Feature | Monotube | Twin-Tube |
|---|---|---|
| Heat management | Excellent - direct heat dissipation | Good - more fluid volume, less direct dissipation |
| Response | Sharp - popular for track and drift | Smoother - often preferred for comfort |
| Packaging | Often larger diameter body | Typically slimmer body |
| Tuning range | Broad - strong, consistent valving | Broad - comfort-leaning options common |
Spring Rates: Linear vs Progressive
Linear springs deliver a consistent rate throughout travel - ideal for predictability in performance driving. Progressive springs increase rate as they compress - helpful for comfort with bottoming-out resistance. Choose rates based on vehicle weight, tire grip, and intended use.
Top Mounts: Pillowball vs Rubber
- Pillowball (spherical) – maximizes steering precision and alignment stability, introduces more NVH.
- Rubber – isolates noise and harshness, best for comfort-oriented builds.
For alignment flexibility, look for camber plates (and sometimes caster) integrated into the top mount.
Coilovers vs Lowering Springs
Lowering springs reduce ride height but offer limited control. Coilovers combine height, preload, and damping adjustment in one platform - the correct choice when you care about balance, grip, and repeatability.
How to Choose Coilovers for Street, Track, Drift
Street
- Moderate spring rates for ride quality.
- Corrosion resistance - sealed threads and quality coatings.
- Rubber top mounts if NVH bothers you.
Track
- Higher spring rates matched to tire grip.
- Monotube bodies for heat control and response.
- Independent rebound and compression if available.
Drift
- Rates that support quick weight transfer without bottoming.
- Pillowball mounts and camber plates for precise alignment.
- Ample bump travel with correct ride height - avoid bind at full lock.
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First-Time Setup: A Step-by-Step Checklist
- Baseline measurements – record stock ride heights and alignment if possible.
- Install carefully – torque fasteners to spec with the car at ride height on the ground or on ramps where needed.
- Set ride height – aim for usable bump travel. Keep side-to-side heights even within a few millimeters.
- Set preload lightly – seat the spring and remove play. Don’t use preload to fake higher spring rates.
- Set damping to baseline – start in the middle of the clicks, then tune in small steps.
- Roll the car – bounce the suspension, settle bushings, re-check heights.
- Get an alignment – mandatory after any coilover install.
- Test drive and iterate – adjust rebound and compression 2 clicks at a time and take notes.
Corner Balancing Basics
Corner-weighting equalizes diagonal weights to improve balance at the limit. It does not change total weight - it redistributes load via ride height adjustments. Track and drift cars benefit the most. Perform after you’ve set final ride height, driver weight in seat, and usual fuel level onboard.
Alignment Pairing: Camber, Caster, Toe
Coilovers shine when paired with a thoughtful alignment. Example starting points - always tailor to tires, power, and track:
- Street sport: Camber −1.0° to −1.5° front, −1.0° rear, near-zero toe, factory caster.
- Track day: Camber −2.0° to −2.5° front, −1.5° to −2.0° rear, slight front toe-out for turn-in, stable rear toe-in.
- Drift baseline: Front caster ~7–8°, front camber −3.5° to −6°, toe-out 1/8–1/4; rear toe-in 1/16–1/8 for stability.
Re-check alignment after the first 100–200 miles as components settle.
Maintenance, Noise, and Rebuilds
- Thread care – clean and apply anti-seize periodically.
- Boots and seals – inspect for tears or leaks.
- Clicks drift? – verify detents and note settings in a log.
- Rebuild intervals – heavy use may require periodic service to keep valving consistent.
Troubleshooting: Ride, Handling, and Noises
- Harsh ride – reduce compression, verify tire pressures, ensure you’re not riding on bump stops.
- Floaty or bouncy – increase rebound a few clicks; check spring rates and preload.
- Knocking – torque top hats and lower mounts, check end links and top-mount bearings.
- Understeer – add front camber, reduce front compression slightly, adjust tire pressures.
- Oversteer – add rear toe-in, soften rear compression, evaluate rear spring rate.
FAQs
Do I need coilovers or will lowering springs do?
If you want looks only, springs can work. If you want control over ride height, damping, and alignment tuning, coilovers are the right tool.
Are coilovers good for daily driving?
Yes when chosen correctly. Pick moderate rates, quality valving, and top mounts that match your NVH tolerance.
What’s the difference between rebound and compression?
Rebound controls extension after a bump; compression controls the rate of compression during impacts and weight transfer.
Do coilovers require alignment?
Absolutely. Plan for a professional alignment after installation and again after heights settle.
How low should I go?
Low enough to gain stability and aero benefits while preserving bump travel and geometry. Avoid “looks-first” setups that bottom out.
Next Steps
Want an even deeper dive? Start with our primary article: What Are Coilovers – The Ultimate Guide. When you’re ready to choose, explore SLR Drift Spec Coilovers built for real performance and repeatable results.
